MIKE'S KITCHEN,

Mike's Kitchen is the stuff of cheap-eats legend, so popular they don't even put a sign up outside the VFW Post where they're located. Italian home-cooking treats, not usually available in restaurants, are offered here Ñ rabe, "Andy Boy" (another leafy green), Baccala, polenta, and fried artichoke hearts in a light egg-and-flour glaze with scallions. In addition to the more traditional faves, the chef also pulls out some interesting variations, like wild mushrooms and eggplant over pasta or vegetable ravioli.